Débora: Incredible!, in ‘El Caldero de Sancho’ – Entertainment – Culture

It would suffice to cite a couple of data from the two characters who are in charge of the Deborah restaurant, that opened its doors just a long month ago, to understand what we are talking about.

they are Jacobo Bonilla and Valentino Galán. After a tour of the planet’s demanding kitchens, including New York’s acclaimed Eleven Madison Park, Jacobo was for five years the executive chef of Criterion, of the Rausch brothers. For his part, Valentino made a career as service director in renowned restaurants in Peru, and was the sommelier of Central, which has ranked first on the continent several times.

They know their trade, pour generous doses of their youthful energy into it, and strive to perfect it every day. I have no doubt that the restaurant that has just opened in Bogotá will soon become a benchmark for good food in this city that has positioned itself as one of the gastronomic destinations in Latin America.

(You can read: This is the new record for Burgers served by the Burger Master 2023).

Colombian ingredients treated with art and haute cuisine techniques; a cellar with wonderful wines, references that are not easily obtained and a sommelier that can lead to an unprecedented experience. Those are the bastions of this restaurant with a proposal that is well worth exploring.

Débora’s letter is small, perhaps because each dish requires careful preparation –and presentation–, with attention to every detail. It offers a tour that they have divided into Rio and Costa –among others, a tuna that is among the best I have tasted in a long time–, Campo –for example, some simply spectacular veal sweetbreads with tamarind– and Vegetal –creamy rice, vegetable chicharrones, Andean cereals–.

(Also: “Bogotá has splendid restaurants,” says Francisco López, founder of Salón Gourmets.)

Jacobo Bonilla’s talent is such that he manages to turn a beef tongue –which has never been one of my affections– into an exquisite dish. I could not believe it! With the same dexterity he treats a pig’s mask as a suckling pig and turns it into a delicacy.

And Valentino Galán knows so much about the complex world of oenology that he has detected, for example, incredible Bolivian wines – where this fascinating drink apparently was born for South America – to name just one of the many geographies present there.

Good for Débora, where you eat very well and drink very well.

Deborah. Calle 69 No. 4 – 80. Tel: 310-6428288

SANCHO
FOOD CRITIC
elcalderodesancho@yahoo.com.co